Religion and the Senses


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Tasting Religion

Edited by
Aldea Mulhern [+–]
California State University, Fresno
Aldea Mulhern is assistant professor of method and theory in religious studies at California State University, Fresno, USA. She researches food and religion among minoritized communities, particularly Jews and Muslims in North America, who engage with the local, organic, and ecological food movements internationally. Before arriving at Fresno State, Aldea lectured on the study of religion and the anthropology of religion at the University of Toronto, and taught at Grand Valley State University in Michigan as visiting assistant professor of cultural diversity and intercultural communication. She serves on the steering committee of the Food and Religion Unit of the American Academy of Religion, and is a member of the Canadian Society for the Study of Religion, and participant in NASSR and the IAHR. Her article on “Eating Jewishly” appears in SCRIPTA, the journal of the Donner Institute for Comparative Religion, and she is currently working on her first book, a comparative ethnography of food work in female-led Jewish and Muslim communities in Ontario, Canada.
Graham Harvey [+–]
Open University
Graham Harvey is Emeritus Professor of Religious Studies at the Open University, UK. His research is concerned with the performance and rhetoric of identities among Jews, Pagans and indigenous peoples. He is particularly interested in the ‘new animism’, embracing relational and material approaches to interactions between humans and the larger than human world. His recent publications include The Handbook of Contemporary Animism(2013) and Food, Sex and Strangers: Understanding Religion as Everyday Life (2013).

Foodways, which span the cultivation, selection, procurement, preservation, preparation, sharing, eating and not-eating, and disposal of food by persons and communities, are fundamental to religion. Struggles for and over food have been foundational and perpetual in the lives of religious persons and communities; this is true of struggles over food’s material form, as well as over its classification (food or not-food, permitted food or forbidden food, foods that must be separated and foods that must be combined, food for the gods, food for others, and food for oneself and one’s intimate others). If the plurality of significance of food in religion is remarkable, it is equally remarkable that food is a constantly significant feature: simply put, there is no community that does religion that does not also participate in religioning through food.

This volume explores the production, consumption, and sharing of food as key ways to understand and learn about religious lives or practices. While food rules (e.g. kashrut or halal) are discussed this book is more about the fluidity of religious life than about official teachings. As with the other volumes in this series, the authors seek to avoid some of the historical pitfalls of Western discourses that hierarchize the senses, and isolate them from one another. They are interested in the ways that taste troubles such readings of the body, both physical and social, and invites us to think of the texture of full-body experiences of flavour, hunger, satiety, desire, guilt, revulsion, connection, intoxication, foreignness, and at-home-ness. In the same way, taste troubles the geography of the nation-state, by turns containing and revealing the multi-placed, multi-bodied histories of foods. The multi-sense and trans-bordered dimensions of taste, as a mode of relating to food, and as a mode of relating to knowing, reveal alternative ways of making sense of the ways that persons and communities engage in and disengage from religioning in creative, mundane, diverse, and particular material ways.

Series: Religion and the Senses

Table of Contents

Introduction

Introduction [+–]
Aldea Mulhern,Graham Harvey
California State University, Fresno
Aldea Mulhern is assistant professor of method and theory in religious studies at California State University, Fresno, USA. She researches food and religion among minoritized communities, particularly Jews and Muslims in North America, who engage with the local, organic, and ecological food movements internationally. Before arriving at Fresno State, Aldea lectured on the study of religion and the anthropology of religion at the University of Toronto, and taught at Grand Valley State University in Michigan as visiting assistant professor of cultural diversity and intercultural communication. She serves on the steering committee of the Food and Religion Unit of the American Academy of Religion, and is a member of the Canadian Society for the Study of Religion, and participant in NASSR and the IAHR. Her article on “Eating Jewishly” appears in SCRIPTA, the journal of the Donner Institute for Comparative Religion, and she is currently working on her first book, a comparative ethnography of food work in female-led Jewish and Muslim communities in Ontario, Canada.
Open University
Graham Harvey is Emeritus Professor of Religious Studies at the Open University, UK. His research is concerned with the performance and rhetoric of identities among Jews, Pagans and indigenous peoples. He is particularly interested in the ‘new animism’, embracing relational and material approaches to interactions between humans and the larger than human world. His recent publications include The Handbook of Contemporary Animism(2013) and Food, Sex and Strangers: Understanding Religion as Everyday Life (2013).
The introduction by the editors provides an entry point to the field. It provides some reminders of familiar themes – those food rules, ritual meals, cultural preferences and abstentions. It seeks to do this in interesting ways, e.g. providing a vignette of what foods different Muslims might share for Iftar rather than blandly stating that Ramadan is a time of fasting. It sets out what has been achieved in previous scholarship about religion and foodways, e.g. pointing to foundational or required reading in the area, perhaps tracing a feast from Mary Douglas’ Purity and Danger (1966) via Caroline Walker Bynum’s Holy Feast and Holy Fast (1988) to Devon Mihesuah and Elizabeth Hoover’s Indigenous Food Sovereignty in the United States: Restoring Cultural Knowledge, Protecting Environments, and Regaining Health (2019). Even in pointing to these works, the introduction emphasizes the complexity not only of religiously-inflected foodways but also of understanding “religion” and “culture,” “health” and “transcendence” and more. It places the volume in relation to multi- and inter-disciplinary scholarship of food (production, consumption, waste, sovereignty, sustainability, etc.). In addition to encouraging a fuller conversation about the different interests of particular disciplines, the introduction crucially highlights the diversity of approaches and methods that might be applied in studying taste and religion.

Part 1: Production

1. Converting to Flourishing: Eco-halal and Eco-Buddhist Farming in Conversation [+–]
Sarah E. Robinson
Pacific Lutheran University and Santa Clara University
Sarah E. Robinson, also Robinson-Bertoni, is a scholar of religion, ethics, environment, and food. She researches sustainable agriculture in religious contexts. She has served as a professor for over six years at Pacific Lutheran University, Santa Clara University, and Dominican University of CA, teaching courses in environmental studies, first-year writing, women’s and gender studies, and religion. Robinson serves in the Steering Committee for the Religion and Food unit of the American Academy of Religion. She serves also as a Board Member-at-Large for the International Society for the Study of Religion, Nature, and Culture. For the American Academy of Religion, Western Region, she has been conference manager, Women’s Caucus liaison to the Board, Regional Student Director to the national-level Student Committee, and unit chair for Ecology and Religion, Graduate Student Professional Development, and Women and Religion. Her writing appears in the Springer Encyclopedia of Food and Agricultural Ethics; Columbia University Press’ Religion, Food, and Eating in North America; Oxford University Press’ Flourishing: Comparative Religious Environmental Ethics; Routledge’s Key Thinkers on the Environment; and the journal Religions and the Journal of Feminist Theology. She co-edited the 2021 volume Valuing Lives, Healing Earth: Religion, Gender, and Life on Earth, highlighting global women striving for community health and religious integrity in justice seeking ways. She continues to research, write, present, and publish, while focusing on work as Advocacy Manager for Earth Ministry/Washington Interfaith Power and Light.
Recognizing the need for sustainability—a cyclical notion of continual replenishment of natural systems, including human communities, toward mutual flourishing—can be described as a conversion experience, renewing ethical and practical commitments. Converts to agricultural sustainability often recover the notion of inherent value in the beasts, birds, bees, flowers, and food plants, a range of beings morally sublimated in industrial systems where monetary value dominates the agricultural landscape. The author’s U.S.-based case studies display Muslim and Buddhist sustainable agricultural practices highlighting ethically integrated relationships of care, offering a social, economic, and environmental alternative to exploitative industrial agriculture. In Chicago, Taqwa Eco-food Cooperative (2002-2009) provided locally and sustainably produced halal meat, permissible for Muslims. Taqwa leaders educated on integrating ethics with food practice, emphasizing tayyib, or wholesomeness. Taqwa combined ethical reflection with practice improving the health of consumers, lives of animals, livelihoods of farmers, as well as the Muslim prayerful tradition of slaughter, not undertaken lightly. Green Gulch Farm is a part of the San Francisco Zen Center (SFZC), which was founded in 1962. Managers and apprentices cultivate several acres facing the Pacific Ocean, producing vegetables for farmer’s markets, local restaurants, and for the SFZC community. In interviews, leaders reflected on sustainable farming and the Buddhist concept of dependent co-arising, dynamic interdependence. Each case study represents a unique context in time, place, and social location, which affords both a strong critique of industrial agriculture and a local-scale alternative designed for mutual flourishing. The case studies demonstrate sustainable, local, religiously oriented projects, producing viable alternatives for food production and distribution. The religious notions of dependent co-arising and tayyib socially support sustainable conversions to concretely care for people, land, water, agricultural ecosystems, and other-than-human living beings eaten as food.
2. Protecting Our Living Relatives: Environmental Reproductive Justice and Seed Rematriation [+–]
Elizabeth Hoover
University of California, Berkeley
Elizabeth Hoover is an associate professor in the Department of Environmental Science, Policy and Management at University of California, Berkeley.
For many Native American communities, understandings of family, fertility, and “collective continuance” are closely rooted to the protection, preservation, and revitalization of native seeds.1 Following on generations of eradication and assimilation, during which the fertility of both Native peoples and gardens have come under threat, Native people have utilized or developed a series of movements, including the reproductive justice movement, the environmental justice movement, and the seed rematriation movement, in an effort to protect and reunite Native families, including their seed relatives.

Part 2: Preparation

3. Making Dry Meat: Indigenous Dene Food Preparation and the Importance of Women’s Labor in Maintaining Familial, Ecological, and Spiritual Relations [+–]
David Walsh
Gettysburg College
David Walsh is Associate Professor in Religion Studies at Gettysburg College.
When visiting a Dene elder with whom I have been conducting ethnographic research in subarctic Canada for the last decade she inevitably, in the course of every in-person and phone conversation, broaches the topic of what she is currently preparing: tanning two moose hides, sewing a pair of caribou-hide mittens or moose-hide moccasins with a beaver hair cuff, stirring flour and lard for bannock bread, filleting fish to hang in the sun for dried fish meat or, if a male relative has had the luck of hunting some caribou, hanging the meat on poles suspended over the fireplace for making dry caribou meat. Each of these gendered tasks of preparation is essential, not only for providing food and other goods to her family, but for maintaining good relations between Dene and their ecological relations; the animals and ancestors on whom they depend. In the study of Indigenous religions, food is an essential yet often overlooked feature. Much has been written on the acquisition of food in traditional hunter-gatherer and agricultural societies. However, the necessity of food preparation has seldom garnered attention. Similarly, scholarship, predominantly by male academics, tends to highlight the roles of men in Indigenous foodways; such as hunting or farming. My Dene consultants, male and female, do not make this mistake. In this chapter, I discuss Dene food preparation and women’s labor to highlight their unique importance in maintaining familial, ecological, and spiritual relations in a more-than-human world.
4. A Trickster Menu: Food offerings for Eshu in Umbanda [+–]
Patricia Rodrigues de Souza
Pontifical Catholic University of São Paulo, Brazil
Patricia Rodrigues de Souza has been a Chef de cuisine and is currently a PhD student in religious studies at the Pontifical University of São Paulo, Brazil. She has taught Brazilian cookery and lectured on food studies. Patricia has observed religions, specially Brazilian Candomblé, through the lenses of food practices and has published a book in which she compares religions in terms of food practices: (“Religion at the table: a sample of religions and their food practices”).
Eshu is the African trickster God, naturalized in Brazil after slavery. He is present in every Afro-Brazilian religion occupying different positions: guardian, master, god and trickster, some other religions even attribute him the post of Demon. His place and functions can be confusing, for this is part of his character. He transits across epistemological binarisms always taking devotees out of their comfort zone and that’s probably why it is so difficult for most cartesian minds to understand him or his advices. In addition, Umbanda is itself a religion that subverts many values, for devotees to get advised, in spiritual consultations, by spirits of former African slaves, native Indians, gypsies, mistresses and many who have been despised and oppressed in history. Umbanda has been a very decentralized and dynamic religion showing no pattern in its rituals, liturgic calendars or hierarchy of spirits, each Umbanda temple’s character is reflected on its food practices. Within this deconstructing context, preparing Eshus’ food offerings is no less tricky, there are not clear and “universal” principles for Eshu’s food preparation, whoever is designated to prepare their food has to learn it straight from the spirits, whom, incorporated in the mediums in trance, tell her/him what they want to eat, how it should be prepared, when and where it can be offered. In this chapter I seek to explore the preparation of foods to be offered to the Eshus of Templo da Liberdade Tupinambá, an Umbanda temple located in Rio de Janeiro.

Part 3: Consumption

5. Against Taste: The Ritual Power of Revulsion in Consuming the Decaying Dead [+–]
Beth Conklin
Vanderbilt University
Beth Conklin is Associate Professor in the Department of Anthropology at Vanderbilt University.
The most thoroughly documented and intimate accounts of funerary cannibalism in the ethnographic record come from the testimonies of Wari’ elders in western Brazil, among whom the practice of consuming the bodies of their dead lasted until the 1960s. Contrary to taken-for-granted views of cannibalism as an act of self-gratification, Wari’ purposefully allowed their loved ones’ bodies to begin to decay before they were roasted, which made consumption a deeply unpleasant experience. Taste was just one dimension of immersive, multisensory ritual processes in which eating encapsulated and mediated spiritual, social, and symbolic relations centered in shifting dynamics of feeding and being fed, hunting and being hunted, among kin and between humans and animals the living and the dead. Wari’ experiences challenge assumptions about distinctions and hierarchies among the senses, and show how acts of eating are enmeshed in affective potencies shaped by people’s histories of procuring, producing, and partaking in food together.
6. What Does religion Taste Like? [+–]
Graham Harvey
Open University
Graham Harvey is Emeritus Professor of Religious Studies at the Open University, UK. His research is concerned with the performance and rhetoric of identities among Jews, Pagans and indigenous peoples. He is particularly interested in the ‘new animism’, embracing relational and material approaches to interactions between humans and the larger than human world. His recent publications include The Handbook of Contemporary Animism(2013) and Food, Sex and Strangers: Understanding Religion as Everyday Life (2013).
Religions are replete with feasts and fasts, with food rules (explicit or assumed). They are social acts that are often structured around shared meals or shared rules about what can or cannot be consumed. Religious festivals are often identifiable by the specific foods. Some mythologies emphasise the consumption of helpful or salvific beings or substances. Sub-arctic bear ceremonies, Christian eucharists, meals during or after periods of fasting in many religions all illustrate the centrality of consumption. Foods and drinks often play significant roles in the oppositions that highlight the key themes of particular religions, especially when these view physicality as problematic. In the everyday lives of religious people, foodways act to reinforce affiliations. But they also flavour commitments and communities. This chapter surveys the tastes of selected religions to experiment with a definition of religion as social foodways.

Part 4: Refraining

7. Tasty Nationalism at the Table of the Republic: Excluding Food, Excluding People at School and in the Streets of Contemporary France [+–]
Florence Pasche Guignard
Université Laval
Florence Pasche Guignard is Assistant Professor in the Faculty of Theology and Religious Sciences at Université Laval.
Combining the notions of “culinary citizenship,” (Mannur 2010) and “culinary nationalism” (Parkhurst Ferguson 2014), this chapter will discuss how “tasty nationalism” is at work in public schools and streets in contemporary France through four case studies that involve food, religion, secularism, and identity. First, the focus on school lunch policies and menus will demonstrate how lunches served (or not) to children participate in the debated French notion of “vivre ensemble” (living together) in diversity, which translates into “manger ensemble” (eating together) at the table of the Republic, the same dish, at the same time. I will show how the public school system shapes French children into becoming future citizens of “good taste” with healthy food habits through a specific culinary education that emphasizes refraining from certain food items and sourcing food from local territory and patrimony. While certain foods (such as ketchup) are banned, at the same tables, some citizens (such as observant Muslim students) are excluded through enforcing particular food items on the menu in the name of French laïcité (secularism). Other cases will give more background to discussions on culinary identity and nationalism in relation to religion: first, the “apéros saucisson-pinard” (serving wine and pork sausage appetizers in the streets) organized by groups manifesting forms of islamophobia through promoting laïcité; then, the “maraudes” (distribution of food to French homeless people, prioritizing “les nôtres avant les autres” or “ours before others”) organized by identitarian groups whose reclaiming of a French Catholic identity remains contentious. The chapter will thus highlight how different forms of resistance emerge through food in sites where secular French identities are constructed or affirmed: first, a resistance against globalization taking the form of American culinary imperialism (“McDonaldization”), then a resistance against dietary restrictions perceived as a form of ostentatious religious belonging in this highly secular framework.
8. Milk, Meat, Fish, and Feelings: Gender, the Taste of Animal Ethics, and the Development of Religious Food Laws in the 21st Century [+–]
Aldea Mulhern
California State University, Fresno
Aldea Mulhern is assistant professor of method and theory in religious studies at California State University, Fresno, USA. She researches food and religion among minoritized communities, particularly Jews and Muslims in North America, who engage with the local, organic, and ecological food movements internationally. Before arriving at Fresno State, Aldea lectured on the study of religion and the anthropology of religion at the University of Toronto, and taught at Grand Valley State University in Michigan as visiting assistant professor of cultural diversity and intercultural communication. She serves on the steering committee of the Food and Religion Unit of the American Academy of Religion, and is a member of the Canadian Society for the Study of Religion, and participant in NASSR and the IAHR. Her article on “Eating Jewishly” appears in SCRIPTA, the journal of the Donner Institute for Comparative Religion, and she is currently working on her first book, a comparative ethnography of food work in female-led Jewish and Muslim communities in Ontario, Canada.
While there has been significant scholarly interest in religious food law as containing dietary restrictions, rules, and regulations (whether rational or irrational), there have been fewer attempts to re-think religious food law as a matter of bodily, lived experience. In this chapter, I consider statements of gastronomic pleasure, disgust, joy, satiety, pain, and conflict as sites for thinking about how religious actors narrativize bodily experience through the lens of religious identification, and organize and integrate that experience as practice. In particular, I focus on stories of dissonance and integration of food experiences in the narratives of Jewish and Muslim interlocutors who participate in religioning via food, farming, and ecology. When vegans eat fish, when eaters of religiously-slaughtered meat eat conventionally-slaughtered animal flesh, or when meat-eaters swear off meat or sing praises of vegetable food, there is an opportunity to understand embodied ideologies (broadly understood) of what is appropriate, desirable, endurable, and also tasty. Manifestly obvious and individualistic though “food preferences” may seem, the phenomenon glossed by “preference” or “non-preference” for particular foods is, rather, a richly interpersonal and experience-laden matrix of meaning-making. Pleasure, far from being a straightforward, received experience, is actively reconstructed in tandem with an architecture of value that contextualizes the mouth-feel and body-feel (and perhaps even a mind-feel, or soul-feel) of food.

Part 5: Preservation/Disposal

9. LDS Food Preservation [+–]
Dixie Johnson,Reka Bordas-Simon
Hawaii Pacific University
Hawaii Pacific University
The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, commonly known as the Mormon church or the LDS church, has a rich, though recent history. Within the 200 years that this religion has been practiced, traditions regarding food have developed and morphed into the current cultural and religious taste of the LDS church. The LDS church, led by a modern day prophet, has issued guidance to help its members through challenging times, including the instruction for each Latter-Day Saint family to store a year’s worth of food. This, in addition to nearly 1 million acres of land owned by the LDS church used for farms and ranches, many of which are welfare farms, creates an unparalleled dynamic between food and Latter-Day Saints. Though self-preservation is expounded upon continuously, Latter-Day Saints are encouraged to store food that they would usually eat and church welfare programs give out staples that can be used to make a variety of popular LDS dishes. This leads to LDS families not only storing beans, rice, and pasta, but also ingredients to bake bread, cinnamon rolls, and other sweets. As LDS families have kept food storages through the decades, food storage businesses have shifted from only offering staples to making food storages taste good. Although many members of the LDS church abstain from consuming specific foods, looking at the foods Latter-Day Saints do taste and the unique ways they approach storing food offers particular insight into the history and values of their religion.
10. Sacred to Profane: Temples, Tables, Toilets and Tombs [+–]
Graham Harvey
Open University
Graham Harvey is Emeritus Professor of Religious Studies at the Open University, UK. His research is concerned with the performance and rhetoric of identities among Jews, Pagans and indigenous peoples. He is particularly interested in the ‘new animism’, embracing relational and material approaches to interactions between humans and the larger than human world. His recent publications include The Handbook of Contemporary Animism(2013) and Food, Sex and Strangers: Understanding Religion as Everyday Life (2013).
A contrast between “sacred” and “profane” is evident in some religions. While derived from a relatively neutral Roman distinction between temples and their surroundings, it has taken on a more dramatic sense of a contrast between good/valued and bad/denigrated. “Profanity” can then refer to bodily functions or to words for / about some body parts. This chapter reflects on the materiality and the discourses of waste, disposal and “dirt” (following Mary Douglas). Following discussion of some examples of the profane problem of toilets and waste in some religions, the chapter engages with the scholarly theorisation of sacrality and profanity, of temples, tables, toilets and, indeed, tombs. The absence or distance of toilets from many religious buildings before the secularising and democratising impact of Modernity provides some telling religious examples. Some Qumran / Dead Sea texts suggest that toilet areas were beyond the permitted shabbat travel distance. Rabbinic Judaism’s imagination of tables in Jewish homes as somehow equivalent to the altar in the temple also marks them as separate from toilets (so that mezuzot are not placed on toilet doors). In some forms of Christianity, unconsumed communion wafers and wine have to be disposed of in particular places, not in drains. Further or different examples will be drawn from other chapters in this book and other sources. Before too strong a contrast is reified, it will be important to note contrary indicators. Medieval monastic production of sacred art required tanning of skins and the production of paints. Excrement and urine were vital ingredients in such processes. The sacred/profane contrast is not only a religious one but also sometimes a scholarly one. The chapter will therefore confront the reification of the terms as bordered and boxed categories rather than as continuously negotiated and assemblages.

ISBN-13 (Hardback)
9781000000000
Price (Hardback)
£75.00 / $100.00
ISBN-13 (Paperback)
9781000000000
Price (Paperback)
£24.95 / $32.00
ISBN (eBook)
9781000000000
Price (eBook)
Individual
£24.95 / $32.00
Institutional
£75.00 / $100.00
Publication
01/02/2026
Pages
256
Size
234 x 156mm
Readership
scholars and students

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