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Portable Food

Proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery 2022

Edited by
Mark McWilliams [+–]
Mark McWilliams, Professor of English at the United States Naval Academy, has served as Editor of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery since 2011.

Promising explorations of the foods we encounter travelling, Portable Foods was selected as the topic for 2022, the year in which symposiasts could after a two year hiatus gather for discussion and enjoyment at the 2022 Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery.

Fascinated by the meals possible on rolling trains and zooming jets, the symposium included analyses of the history and culture of dining in mobile spaces. Containing papers on diverse topics, including a study of luxury and historical imperialism, then moving to the food served on twentieth-century Dutch airplanes, and the issues of safe guarding with gender differences in twenty-first-century Indian train compartments, the studies encompassed all kinds of travel foods, both of exploration and nomadic life, from pemmican and penguin meat to achar and qurut.

Table of Contents

Foreword

Foreword
Mark McWilliams
Mark McWilliams, Professor of English at the United States Naval Academy, has served as Editor of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery since 2011.

Chapter 1

Dietary Advice for Travellers from the Mid-Sixteenth Century to Early Seventeenth Century with Two Test Cases: Michel de Montaigne and Fynes Moryson
Ken Albala
University of the Pacific
Ken Albala is Tully Knoles Endowed Professor at the University of the Pacific in Stockton,
California. He has published 27 books and won the 2023 Outstanding Faculty Award at the
university.

Chapter 2

We Are Open, Says the City
Tamar Babuadze

Chapter 3

Urban Nomads and Vagabond Food: Eating Away from the Table in Nineteenth- Century France
Janet Beizer
Harvard University
Janet Beizer is Professor of Romance Languages and Literatures at Harvard University,
and specializes in literature, cultural studies, and food studies. Her forthcoming book is
The Harlequin Eaters: From Food Scraps to Modernism in Nineteenth Century France.

Chapter 4

When the Lord Eats Away from the Table: Outdoor Food in Indian Gaudiya Vaishnavism
Tanushree Bhowmik

Chapter 5

Cunard and Collins: Portable Food and Evolving Notions of Customer Service at Sea, 1840-1880
Andrea Broomfield
Johnson County Community College
Andrea Broomfield chairs the Department of English at Johnson County Community College in Overland Park, Kansas. Her most recent books are Kansas City: A Food Biography and Iconic Restaurants of Kansas City.

Chapter 6

From ‘Peanut Weddings’ to ‘Beef Stands’: The Socio-Culinary History of Chicago’s ‘Italian Beef’
Anthony F. Buccini
Anthony F. Buccini (PhD Cornell University) is an historical linguist and dialectologist who
formerly taught at the University of Chicago in the Departments of Germanic Languages and Literatures and Linguistics. As a food historian, his research focusses on the Mediterranean and Atlantic World. He is a two-time winner of the Sophie Coe Prize in Food History.

Chapter 7

Achar: An Unexpected Stowaway on the Ships of the Dutch East India Company
Kathleen Burke

Chapter 8

Food for Travel, Travel for Food: The Story of Ekiben
Voltaire Cang
Voltaire Cang is an academic researcher based in Tokyo. He researches and writes about
Japan’s ‘intangible’ heritage, including food and other cultural practices and tradition.

Chapter 9

The Raw and the Disordered: Portable Feasts, Blood, and Raw Meat Salads in Contemporary Political Movements in Thailand
Nattha Chuenwattana,Chonlatorn Wongrussame

Chapter 10

Savour the Flavour: A Portable History of Instant Coffee
Julia Fine

Chapter 11

Mobile Gastronomies: A Case Study of Food on Wheels Culture in Hyderabad, South India
Kashyapi Ghosh,V. Vamshi Krishna Reddy

Chapter 12

An Exploration of Food Mobility through the Cultural Practice of Koseli in Contemporary Nepal
Binti Gurung

Chapter 13

Fair Food to Walk With
Peter Hertzmann

Chapter 14

Dispatches from the Chicken Sandwich Wars
Michael Johnson

Chapter 15

Istanbul’s Portable Food Practices: The Case of Dolma
Piril Kadirgan

Chapter 16

Provisioning for Adventures: The Meanings of Paddington Bear’s Marmalade Sandwiches
Laura Kitchings
Laura Kitchings is a member of the National Coalition of Independent Scholars, an elected
member of the American Antiquarian Society, and holds a Master of Liberal Arts in Gastronomy from Boston University. She has worked for a variety of cultural heritage organizations.

Chapter 17

Serving the Global Nation: Menus from the Royal Dutch Airlines
Charlotte Kleyn,Aimee Plukker

Chapter 18

‘No kind of food? Just rubbish?’: Food Options and Family Meals of Visitors to Canadian Prisons
Else Marie Knudsen

Chapter 19

Eating in Public in Antiquity: Honorable or Obscene?
Joshua Lovinger

Chapter 20

Food for the Final Journey: Feeding the Soul in Hindu Death Rituals
Priya Mani
Priya Mani, a designer and cultural researcher based in Copenhagen working to create
gastronomical experiences, is particularly interested in the social interactions of making,
presenting, and consuming food.

Chapter 21

Picnicking in Iran: From Cemeteries to Ski Slopes, Caves, Traffic Circles, and Beaches
Nader Mehravari
University of California, Davis
Nader Mehravari is a Research Associate at the College of Agriculture and Environmental
Sciences, University of California, Davis. His work explores the history, principles, and practices of ancient and contemporary Persian cookery and associated foodways.

Chapter 22

Food on the Move: Commensality in an Indian Train Compartment
Shirin Mehrotra

Chapter 23

An Army Marches on Its Stomach: Portable Foods in War and Peace
Johanna Mendelson Forman

Chapter 24

Going to the Gahambar: Tradition and Invention in Parsi Community Feasts
Meher Mirza

Chapter 25

The Perils and Promises of Portability: Sweets and Snacks in Modernizing Japan
Tatsuya Mitsuda

Chapter 26

A Rational Approach: Portable and Practical Eating ‘Beyond the Seas’
Jacqui Newling

Chapter 27

Hoosh, Dogs, and Seal Meat: The Role of Food in the Race to the South Pole
Diana Noyce

Chapter 28

The ‘tacos de canasta’ (Basket Tacos) in the University: An Example of the Close Relationship between Informality and Mobility
Ayari G. Pasquier Merino,M. Fernanda Estrada Gonzalez

Chapter 29

From the Steppe to Space: The Portable Power of Qurut
Simi Rezai-Ghassemi
View Website
Simi Rezai-Ghassemi is a cookery teacher, writer, food researcher, organic gardener, and Iran food tour guide. She was born in the Azerbaijan region of Iran. Simi is a self-taught cook, coming to gardening and cooking later in life. When her friend’s children were diagnosed with coeliac disease and couldn’t eat dairy either, Simi shared a few Iranian recipes, the start of Simi’s Kitchen in Bath. Somerset. She is a specialist in the food of the Silk Route and allergen-free cooking. She is a regular at the Oxford Symposium on Food. Simi travels regularly to Iran to visit family, research recipes and ingredients which she hares in her classes and writing. Simi’s Kitchen has been featured in The Guardian, The Foodie Bugle, Kinfolk and Bath Life magazines.

Chapter 30

Cooking Summer by the Beach: Rulebreaking, Modernity, and Wellness Policies in Three 1960s Egyptian Cookbooks
Salma Serry
Salma Serry, a graduate student in History at University of Toronto with a Food Studies degree from Boston University, is a food history researcher, filmmaker, and founding curator of @sufra_archive, a library dedicated to the modern food history of Southwest Asia and North Africa.

Chapter 31

Pemmican: An Ideal Trail Food
C. Thomas Shay

Chapter 32

‘The Clever Dining Car Conductor’: Creating a Luxury Dining Experience on the Move in Britain, 1879-1948
Chloe Shields

Chapter 33

Connected Food: Preserving Traditional Food Practices via Portable Foods
Sevgi Mutlu Sirakova

Chapter 34

Portable Poetic Commensality: Reflections on the Use of Food Language in Ancient Israel’s Pilgrimage Songs (Psalms 120–134)
Michelle A. Stinson

Chapter 35

Travelling Silver for Those Not to the Manor Born: Old Sheffield Plate and Electro- plated Silver in Travel Equipage and Cutlery, from 1730 to the Belle Epoque
Carolyn Tillie

Chapter 36

Food for Walking: On the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro
Jaime Iram Vargas Barrientos

ISBN-13 (Paperback)
9781909248809
Price (Paperback)
£30.00 / $50.00
Publication
04/07/2023
Pages
384
Size
246 ×174mm
Readership
scholars and general readers
Illustration
black and white illustrations

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